A takes us through the menswear trends emerging from the catwalks at London Collections: Men.Following my latest post on the shows I couldn't wait to see at LCM this season, I will now before your very eyes, condense all the overwhelmingly excitement and gorgeousness into a few (well, maybe more than a few!) major trends. The standard of the shows this season made it somewhat difficult to see objectively, but there were nevertheless some very strong trends coming through.
To the untrained eye, it would seem the designers could not get enough clothes on the models this season. Scarves were layered on coats, which were layered on jumpers, which were layered on shirts...you get the picture. And those shirts were seldom tucked in, rather hanging out from under a jumper in a rebellious schoolboy manner. Layers galore were done in understated plaid at Alexander McQueen; with a 90's feel at Lou Dalton; and suitably deconstructed at Casely-Hayford. All with a pleasing easy to wear, grungy feel. Do try this at home.
Still going strong is the cropped trouser. An offbeat, relaxed approach to a tailored or semi smart trouser, this short style reigns supreme for AW14. Done in cosy, homespun marls at Oliver Spencer, cast into sharp focus with androgynous silhouettes at JW Anderson and in throwback velour at Lou Dalton.
....polo necks, turtle necks, whatever you happen to call them; you better be wearing them. A historically classic style, maybe overdone a tad at ski lodges the world over, they are now at the heady heights of fashion again, with sophisticated black at Topman Design and classic cream at Lou Dalton.
Hats off to those unexpectedly practical fashion designers. This AW14 scarves are all the rage for fending off the weather. Margaret Howell provides a smart plaid option, Burberry (thank you, fashion gods) revives the silk scarf, and Jonathan Saunders provides an oversize, Autumnal beauty. Whatever style you plump for this AW, make sure you wear it nonchalantly, cast over your shoulders like you just don't care.
Fur (or Faux?)
Last AW saw a strong fur contingent strutting down the catwalks, and this season is no different. Baartmans & Siegel draped their models in fur tippets, and both Burberry Prorsum and Christopher Raeburn wrapped their boys up warm in shaggy looking fur coats. All cosied up and ready for the harshest of Winters.
Well, we can't have a big 90's revival without suffering a bit of wet-look, can we? This may not be an easy look to pull off, but it was undeniably popular on the catwalks. Christopher Shannon's models matched their wet-look leather pieces with slicked-down hair and huntergather went for a Gothic look with dark, gelled hair and shiny black blazers. Topman Design pulled out all the stops, with slicked hair, flowing plastic raincoats and rain pouring down as the models traversed the catwalk.
Surface pattern was a joy to behold this season at LCM. These designers earned their stripes playing with proportion. Not your average Breton stripe or even a pinstripe, Jonathan Saunders gave us placement striped knits; Sibling, ever the unexpected, knitted furry stripes into cable knit jumpers, and Casely-Hayford created a checkerboard effect with reverse black and white stripes. A relatively easy and fun trend to recreate with existing wardrobe pieces, apparently any stripe is a good stripe.
We've been having something of a plaid party in womenswear of late, and now the boys want in too. Casley-Hayford do off duty rock star with red plaid and an oversize black t-shrirt, Oliver Spencer keeps it classic gent in tweedy tones, and large scale checks, and Alexander McQueen does what Alexander McQueen does best, subversive punk to a tee. Gloriously easy to wear, and available in an array of colours, scales, textures, there really is a plaid for everyone; join the party!
Black and white certainly is not the safe option this season, this classic pairing are injected with fun and given a new lease of life. Alexander McQueen does bold, graphic knits, the collection by Agi and Sam was almost exclusively black and white, and totally stunning, and monochrome went all Jackson Pollock at huntergather.
In stark contrast to the monochrome trend, the designers went all out with pattern. The variety was nigh-on infinite, but there was a heavy leaning toward the floral. The Burberry Prorsum show was an education in pattern, with florals, paisley, geometrics, tapestry and plaid all vying for our attention. Orlebar Brown presented wonderfully contrary tropical knits; rich, highly-saturated, floral brocade suits were a visual treat courtesy of JW Anderson and Sibling melted our hearts with outfits you know you'd have a good time in - anyone for loop the loop knitted joggers?
Strong Modernist vibes marched their way down our catwalks this season, with everyone from JW Anderson to John Smedley going a bit Bauhaus on us. Burberry Prorsum executed the trend beautifully in both fine silk shirts and scarves and heavy duty woven wraps, and James Long turned his geometric patterns into structured, quilted tops showing this is one versatile trend.
So there we have it, AW14 trends in a nutshell. I don't know about you, but I'm excited. And a tad jealous. Don't be surprised if you see me rocking a fair few of these trends myself, let's not let the boys have all the fun, eh?
For all the collections, check out the London Collections: Men website.