Thursday, 3 March 2016

Style: Milan Fashion Week AW16

The brightest stars at a glittering Milan Fashion Week.

Milan is having a moment - she's bright, bold and newly confident and I like it. The classic glamour of Italian fashion is infused with new life in the form of bold colours, dramatic shapes and luscious textures of frills and fur. This optimistic, sunny outlook shone bright at these shows:

Marni is winning this autumn-winter. Pushing the Marni aesthetic further than ever before, creative director Consuelo Castiglioni, showed a wow-inducing collection. The rounded shoulder shape seen across the board this season was done beautifully at Marni. Shapes and colours were fun but refined, bold but wearable. 

Key piece: the simple, crew-neck shawl would add drama and flourish equally to a workday or weekend look. 

Gucci's Alessandro Michele is on a roll. Since his debut at the label, he has redefined the Gucci look, whilst channeling everything Gucci stands for, and everything we ever loved it for. Last season, the Gucci girl was innocent but brave, exploring literature and culture; this season, the Gucci women is still cultured, still curious, definitely intellectual, but she is finding herself, she is confident, bold. And very colourful.

Key piece: coloured tights will add an air of bohemian intellectualism to any preppy outfit.

Dolce & Gabbana's Disney-fest delighted the fashion crowd this season, the simple playfulness and prettiness of it all winning over all but the harshest of critics. This autumn-winter the Sicilian due were all about being true to your inner 7 year old and indulging in blue sparkles, giant flowers, even crowns.

Key piece: be your own prince charming and rock a be-frogged military jacket.

Salvatore Ferragamo's show was practically perfect in every way, the perfect blend of maximalism and minimalism, of plain and pattern, of gaudiness and refinement. Beautifully balanced models sashayed down the catwalk in block stripes and zig zags, in super-simple cuts - shift dresses, cape coats, and tunic tops ruled the day. Special mention to the set designer for the candy-striped catwalk.

Key piece: the cherry on the Ferregamo cake is a fluffy, cobalt, t-bar pump, no less.

Rising star Arthur Arbesser, the Viennese designer who's making some serious waves in Milan, showed a small but lovely collection of core pieces, skirt suits, day dresses, etc. The natural minimalist tendencies couldn't help be swayed by this maximalist trend, so a suit has an unexpected hit of gold, a printed dress has a subtle clash at the hips. I'll be watching this one closely.

Key piece: if in doubt, add gold.

On to Paris!

A x

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